This document is intended both as a newbie guide to TGM and as a repository of useful tricks and strategies related to TGM. Sorry SRS lovers, your princess is in another castle!
There are many technical terms throughout this guide, and newcomers might be confused by sentences such as "In order to beat the torikan in TAP Death, proper usage of DAS, wallkicks, and a good knowledge of TGM Rotation is required". I encourage them to consult Tetriswiki's glossary and TGM legend.
I use The_Tool for all those fancy gifs. Thanks, jago!
Please also note that English is not my primary language. Feel free to correct any typo, bizarre construction or undecipherable sentences.
I'd also like to thanks everyone who's posting of the forum. I learn something everyday. :)
Tetris the Grand Master - Tetris the... what ? Edit
Tetris the Grand Master (TGM) is an arcade game series developed by Arika and built around the very popular game created by Alexei Pajitnov, Tetris. This is a hardcore game for passionate gamers. Good games last from 7 to 15 minutes. I've written an article on it. For those more interested in Tetris history, I heavily recommend it. Trivia: the (in ?)famous "Tetris Japan Finals" and "TGM 3 Tetris Arika !!! Invisible Tetris" are respectively from TGM2+ (Death Mode) and TGM3 (Master Mode).
Sounds fun... how can I play it ?Edit
TGM is an arcade game. It comes as a circuit board designed to plug into an arcade cabinet with a JAMMA slot. If you do not have an arcade cabinet, you can build one out of a TV and a SuperGun, which is essentially a video game console that takes JAMMA boards instead of game cartridges.
But because TGM boards are as rare as hen's teeth in most English-speaking countries, one can seek an emulation solution: TGM1 is perfectly playable with MAME or ZiNc (I would recommend ZiNc, because it doesn't have that annoying [but fixable] sound bug]). TGM2 is perfectly playable, but for a few years between 0.99 and some time in the 0.12x series, the MAME developers took TGM2 out on Arika's request, and the only way to play TGM2 was to find 0.99u4 in the thick abyss of the Chinese Internet. Now it's back on the official MAME release, so it's not that much a pain to find the relevent files.
Another route is to go the clone way: because TGM is a quite popular game in Japan (otherwise it wouldn't had *2* sequels), it was bound to have someone making a clone, especially when you have 2ch, one the most populous discussion board on the planet.
I'd like to mention three: Texmaster, Heboris and Blockbox. Note: if you have trouble using your joystick with those programs, try Joy2key
Texmaster would be my weapon of choice when it comes to clones. Easy to use (select your game type and play), cross platform (Win/OSX/Linux) and yet filled with handy features such as auto game recording, statistics and video export. My only gripe is that it has by default a weird Counter-Strike: Source theme (customizable).
Default key are: zsxv for movement, M,. for rotations (CCW, CW and CCW) and menu operation (confirmation/cancel) and spacebar for hold. F-key are for various functions, Esc is for quitting the program.
Game mode: Novice, Normal, Special, Advance, Sudden, Double, Special Ti, Sudden Ti are respectively TAP Normal, TGM1, TAP Master, TAP TGM+, TAP Death, TAP Double, TGM3 Master and TGM3 Shirase game mode.
Heboris is a huge mastodont, filled with more feature that you can dream of: multiple rotations system (ARS (both TGM2+ and TGM3 flavor), SRS (both Tetris DS and TGM3 flavor), DRS and so on...) or even customized one, special training mode, tea, coffee, bretzels and pancakes. Its development is now stopped due to some meddling TTC (or Arika, or even TTC via Arika) executive. I still the files on my personal space (original binaries and expansion). Unzip one in a folder, then overwrite the content of the other zip into that same folder.
Default key are: zsxv for movement, bn for rotations (CCW, CW) and menu operation (confirmation/cancel) and m for hold.
Game mode: you must first select your correct rotation system (chose one of the ARS), then try one of the "Master" mode.
Ｊ．Ｏのテトリス講座 : A old but still very good TGM guide. Sadly, it's in japanese. But the image and animation are very instructive.
Youtube: Surprised to see youtube in the link section ? There's ton, *tons* of good player's performance recorded in it. Try with these following keywords: "TGM", "Tetris", "Death Mode", "TAP".
Tetrisconcept: yes, this is the site you are browsing right now. We have a crazy forum and wiki, why don't you consult it ? :)
For an optimal game experience, play with an arcade stick, preferably with a 4-way restriction plate. TGM is an arcade game, after all.
Don't choose a cheap stick, because they generally have inferior grade parts. Aim for a stick with Sanwa or Seimitsu parts in it. Most of the time, these are the same parts used in the public arcade cabinets. They can withstand years of abuse by frenetic gamers; so they *should* last long enough for you, except if your name is Hulk. Also, cheap sticks are made from cheap plastic.
I play with Sega's Virtua Stick High Grade (VSHG). It has been built for PS3, but since consoles nowadays use the convenient USB standard, I was able to plug it into my WinXP PC. It works flawlessly. This stick uses Sanwa's JLF-TP-8Y stick. What is cool with JLF-TP-8Y is that it can be easily modified from an 8-way stick into a 4-way stick, needing nothing else other than the right screwdrivers. So in the end, you can enjoy both Street Fighter *and* TGM. The stick is big (~35x22x5 cm) and heavy (I'd say around 3 kg, thanks to the metal plate at the back). It's black coat, dark-gray and yellow buttons, and big round screws make me feel like I'm in front of a luxury object. The only drawback is that the rebound of the stick is sometimes too strong, and thus activates the opposing switch. This can be a problem, but a more gentle playstyle should alleviate it.
I was able to try the Real Arcade Pro (RAP) for PS2 from Hori. While it also has a JLF-TP-8Y, I felt that it was less stiff than my VSHG. Whether it is a good or bad thing is up to the player. colour_thief likes it, I don't. It's a *huge* stick, even bigger than the VSHG, and the front shiny aluminium plate makes it look like a juggernaut. I sometimes get confused by the button layout (2x4 for the RAP vs. 2x3 for the VSHG), but that's not a big issue. And its buttons are not as beautiful as my VSHG (seriously, green ?)
I was also able to try the Tekken 4 Stick for PS2, also from Hori. While the RAP is less stiff than the VSHG, this one is a lot stiffer. That results in a more nervous playstyle. Again, how stiff you want your stick is up to you.
Those who dont have enough money to buy a real stick... can play with whatever they want. After all, chances are that you won't be *that* hooked by TGM, fighting or arcade games. I can handle pretty well with a keyboard or a gamepad. I made it up to S3 in TGM1 with the analog stick of a Saitek P990 gamepad. I even know a Gm grade player who regularly plays with a pad. The only requirement of those alternative input methods is to be able to be very responsive. An analog stick is not a good choice. And if you are a crazy genius (or a biotechnology engineer) and know how to plug the brain directly on USB, I'm interested.
Whoa, that's hard! Do you have some tips for me?Edit
Sure! Please note that while I use words like "should," "must" and the imperative tense, ultimately it's up to you to decide whether or not to use these techniques. I'm not an uber-l33t Gm player, but I think I give good advice.
Know your enemy (so you can kick his butt later)Edit
Each time a tetramino locks, the level counter is incremented by one, and there's a bonus given when clearing lines. A line must be cleared in order to go over hundreds (99->100, 199->200, 299->300 etc..)
There's four directions and three (four in TGM3) buttons. The latter are called A, B, C and D (or H)
- ← and → are for moving the piece horizontally. By holding a direction, DAS is activated.
- ↑ is for the sonic drop: the piece instantly falls, without locking. Note that sonic drop isn't available in TGM1.
- ↓ is for the fast drop: the piece falls quicker than usual. It also used to manually lock the piece into the stack.
Lock and game speedEdit
Right after the landing of a piece, you get a few frames where you can still move it. The number of frames available depends on the level, but you usually get enough time to act, assuming that you don't panic.
| Lock delay |
You can still move a piece after it has landed.
The "speed" of the game is set by several factors:
- Gravity (how fast a tetramino falls)
- Lock delay
- Sometimes the line clear animation.
In Master mode, gravity increases up to level 200, where it suddenly drops. Then it almost continually increases until it reaches level 500, where the maximum speed (20G) is reached. In TGM2 and 3, there's yet another speed increment at level 700, 800 and 900 (ARE time decreases along with lock delay at level 900). I won't talk about Death mode for now, I'm not good enough °^_^ (but you can search on tetriswiki or on the forum).
Even though it isn't as predictable as the TDS randomizer, it's good to know how the TGM randomizer works.
- The randomizer maintains a history of the 4 most recent given pieces.
- Every time it needs to generate a piece, it will impartially choose one of the 7 pieces.
- The randomizer checks if this chosen piece is found in the history. If it isn't, the piece is given. If it is, it randomly picks one of the 7 pieces again. If after a certain number of attempts (4 for TGM, 6 for its sequels), it still does not succeed at finding a piece outside the history, it settles for this recently given piece.
Now, it's good to know all that fancy theory, but as far as you should be concerned, it's simple: don't expect a given piece to be distributed for at least 4 other pieces.
Because it wouldn't be a fun game without something to strut about, Arika set up a grade system. Like many Japanese martial arts, you begin at grade (kyu) 9, followed incrementally by grades 8, 7 , 6, 5 etc... up to grade 1. Then there are S1-9, and finally Gm. There are some conditions to get Gm grade, though.
The grade recognition system differs depending on the game.
In TGM1, your grade increases simply by gaining enough points. To rank as Gm, you must finish the game under a certain time limit.
In TGM2 Death mode, it's survival+time attack: if you can go over level 500 in under 3:25, you are M. If you can finish the game, you are Gm.
In TGM2 Master mode, it's a little more complicated. In a nutshell, for each grade the player must score 100 internal points. The subtlety is that there's a point decay. If you want more details, well...
août 23 23:56:05 <PtitPrince> is there a chart that summarize how grade points are gained in TAP master mode ? août 23 23:56:37 <colour_thief> it's so complicated it would need a 4 dimensional chart or something août 23 23:57:02 <colour_thief> play fast and get tetrises is the simple answer though
... but c_t is exaggerating a little bit here ;), there is [a chart] here. But his idea is right: don't try to optimize your game with this chart, just try to play faster and to make more tetrises.
In TGM2, medals are awarded for particular actions. They don't count toward the final score.
- AC (All clear): Bronze for one bravo, silver for two, gold for three.
- RO (Rotation): At level 300, 700, or 999, the number of rotations per tetromino was at least 6/5.
- ST (Section time): Bronze or silver for approaching the machine's section time record; gold for beating it.
- SK (Skill): Lots of 4-line clears. In Master: 10 awards bronze, 20 awards silver, 35 awards gold. In Death: 5 awards bronze, 10 awards silver, 17 awards gold.
- RE (Recovery): Have 150 or more blocks in the playfield, then clear enough lines that 70 or fewer blocks remain.
- CO (Combo): Clear lines with consecutive tetrominoes (double or higher needed). 4 awards bronze, 5 awards silver and 7 awards gold. Note: Single line clears keep the current combo active, but do not add to it.
General and sub-20G trips and tricks (0-300)Edit
The perfect game does not exist Edit
Holes and mistakes are bound to happen. Even an A.I. will make hole. The art of Tetris is to minimize its damage and its rate of appearance.
| Details of a TAP S7 game from Rosti LFC |
Notice how he managed to keep his game really clean despite an unfavorable stack.
Maximize your luck/chanceEdit
You should stack flat, but not to much. A rule of thumb is to determine which position gives the most opportunity to the other pieces. Getting the right feeling takes time..
Corollary: if there's a place when only one tetramino could fit cleanly, put it in as soon as it appears. That sounds logical - it is -, but in the heat of the game, even I make this mistake.
Zangief to the rescue !Edit
There's a little trick that one can do with a stick in order to save some time: zangi-moves (the name really come from Zangief). There's nothing very special about it, but it is just a very convenient manipulation to use.
| Zangi-move |
A 270° motion is needed in order to quickly accomplish this move.
Keep your rightEdit
You must have a right oriented game. That means:
- Tetris well on the right.
Because the I piece has asymmetrical rotations, it is easier to place it in a well on the right than on the left. It is less a problem in TGM3 due to floorkicks, but it's a little easier to place them at the right. Note that I know a ninja who makes Gm grade score with a left well. But it's a ninja.
- Keep the left clean, put the garbage at the right
Some more experienced player than me urges me to say that it's a lot easier to clean a stack when the garbage are at the right.
Finish him !Edit
Always finish your game, even if you got an awful start. By cleaning really ugly playfields at low gravity, you are learning how to clean really ugly playfields in 20G (when you just don't have the time to think).
Keep the center cleanEdit
Holes in the middle column are really, really, shitty to repair. Avoid them at all costs.
Tips and tricks nearing 20G Edit
Don't panic !Edit
The speed is becoming significantly greater than your Gameboy experience. Keep cool, stay zen and focused ! To panic means to put piece in position that hinders you even more. I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration...
Know what you can and can'tEdit
While nearing 20G, the movement palette is constantly shrinking. You must know what movement is sustainable and what movement is not an option.
Das DAS ist sehr wichtigEdit
The DAS is very useful to send a tetramino at the edge of the playfield. Tap-tap-tap are far less efficient. You must optimize your mouvement, by pressing the least buttons possible. Time saved on piece manipulation is time available to think about the piece position.
Pyramiding your way, part IEdit
It's a good idea to start piling the tetramino at the center of the playfield, because your pieces will naturally fall on the border of the playfield, enabling you to get a few additional microseconds to think. It is also much more easier for the I to fall in the well.
Uses and misuses of the I piece, parti I: rotationsEdit
The I piece is at the same time your worst friend and your best enemy. Or the opposite, I don't remember. Anyway, what I want you to know is that while making Tetris is always a good thing, placing the I in a correct fashion is more tricky, especially in an high speed environment. You *must* know how the I behave, and where you can rotate it and where you can't. Far too many times I stupidly covered my well because I haven't though of how it rotates.
Fortunately, it's not that hard to remembers it rotations.
You see, unlike others tetraminos, the I piece got only two states. flat and upright. That makes the reflexion much more easy to do.
Because its rotation is asymmetrical, the "center" of the piece is in the third bloc. So, in order to determine whetever a rotation is possible of not, you only have to check if the third column is free or not.
Uses and misuses of the I piece, parti II: "I am not a joker" Edit
The I is not a joker, and getting one won't magically solve all your problem. That's not Tetris DS: unlike it, TGM have a very restrictive regarding the pieces movements. While in TDS a star bonus is a blessing (providing you didn't made too much holes), I pieces in TGM can doom you.
In case of difficult distribution, where you are forced to create a hole or a semi-hole, mastering overhangs comes in handy. Overhangs are not so bad places that can easily be filled with other pieces. Even if you played Tetris Game Boy a lot, you probably don't have this skill, because it extensively uses lock delay.
T-spins aren't as important as in TDS, but they are nonetheless quite useful. What is a T-spin ? That's a T rotation that fills normally unfillable semi-holes.
|Most of the time you'll want to use a T-spin in this situation|
Advanced and 20G (500+) Tips and tricksEdit
Pyramiding your way, part IIEdit
The movement palette in 20G is very, very reduced. And that makes pyramiding harder, because you can get stuck because of a hole.
Be extra-careful not making any, for it can be quite incapacitating
A good 20G stack should leave the player a possibility to place his pieces wherever he wants.
Note that in this case, IRS the L to the right is possible.
Wallkicks are gameplay elements that really open the game. The theory is as it follows: if a rotation is normally impossible, the game tries to nudge the piece one cell to the right, and then to the left if it fails to the right, and then fails if it fails to the left.
Now, the theory may seems dead simple, but some applications are really counter-intuitive. Take this L kick, which works in TGM rotation and TOD rotation:
Where to place
Of course, not all useful wallkick are as counter-intruitive as this one. Some are pretty vicious though. Here's some wallkicks exemples:
Synchro, auto-synchro : fuuuu~sion, HA !Edit
This is where Tetris looks more like a fighting game than a puzzle game.
|You need a good understanding of the game internals to do it.
Each frame, it reads the players input, then process it accordingly, then draw the frame. The trick is that rotation and horizontal movement is processed at the same time. So in order to jump that hole, you need to press joystick (movement) and the button (rotation) at the same time.
Let's review that particular move more in details:
Frame 1: Initial situation
Now, while these kind of move are possible, they are seldom used. Why ? Because you need a 1 frame precision, or in others words, a precision of a 1/60th of a second ! Even the most elite Guilty Gear player got more time than that to react !
Now it still possible to use synchro in a normal game. You just need to use it in conjunction with DAS. Because DAS (when charged) sends a movement input every frame, what you need to do is to just press the rotation button.
So, you want to be a Tetris Gm ? That's a long and difficult process. TGM is a little bit more than reflexes and mastering the rotations. Here's some tips about the "meta" aspect of TGM.
Play regularly. Tetris the Grand Master is definitively not a casual game we boot from time to time. Like any sport or martial art, in order to be good at it, you must play and train regularly, pushing your limit a little bit further each time.
Methods of trainingEdit
Motivation motivation motivationEdit
- Reach rank S1 in TGM.
- Reach level 300 in TGM
- Finish TAP Normal mode (including credit roll).
- Regularly reach level 300 in TGM
- Reach level 500 in TGM
- Reach level 150 in TAP T.A. Death
- Reach rank S1 in TAP Master Mode
- Reach level 200 in TAP T.A. Death
- Reach level 700 in TGM
- Reach rank S7 in TGM
- Reach level 300 in TAP T.A. Death
- Reach level 999 in TGM
- Reach rank Gm in TGM
- Reach rank S7 in TAP Master Mode
- Reach level 400 in TAP T.A. Death
- Reach level 999 in TAP Master Mode
- Clear the semi-invisible credit roll on TAP Master Mode
- Reach rank S9 in TAP Master Mode
- Reach level 500 in TAP T.A. Death
- Reach rank m in TAP T.A. Death (level 500 at 3:25:00 or faster)
- Reach level 700 in TAP T.A. Death
- Reach rank m in TAP Master Mode
- Reach rank Gm in TAP T.A. Death (level 999)
- Reach rank Gm in TAP Master Mode